Portugal's Fisher Trail: Hiking Along the Atlantic Coast
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| Already on the first hiking stage, you pass by several bathing coves, including Praia da Samoqueira beach, just before Porto Covo. © Alexandre Rotenberg - Adobe stock |
Introduction
In southern Portugal, along the Atlantic coast, the Trilho dos Pescadores, or Fisher Trail, lures hikers with over 200 kilometers of cliffs and dream beaches, leading from village to village.
Challenging for Beach Lovers
After the first day of hiking, it becomes clear that this trail along Portugal's Alentejo region is not for beach lovers. They would suffer and make slow progress. Even at the long sandy beach of São Torpes, located south of the coastal town of Sines and one of the starting points of the trail, one would rather spend hours playing in the waves or sunbathing instead of strapping on a backpack and setting off on foot.
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| On the route of the Fisher Trail, you'll also find Praia do Malhão, a sandy beach that is one of Portugal's most popular surfing spots. © Fauren - Adobe Stock |
Untouched Beaches and Picturesque Coves
Praia de Morgavel, Praia do Burrinho, Praia da Samoqueira—on this initial stage from Porto Covo, hikers pass by all these secluded coves and picture-perfect beaches. It is almost impossible to just walk by without stopping, yet it is the only choice because there are no accommodations between the few fishing villages that mark the daily stages.
Great Waves and Few Surfers
Surfers should also avoid the "Trilho dos Pescadores," jokes Lukas Pauluhn from Würzburg. He has been traveling with a friend in a camper van along Portugal's Atlantic coast between Porto Covo and Cape São Vicente, the southwestern tip of Portugal, for two weeks now.
"This is simply the best surf hotspot in Europe. You have good waves all year round, and there are hardly any surfers in the water. And just look at this empty dream beach," he says, pointing from the cliff where they are staying in their camper van to the surfer's beach of Malhão, south of Porto Covo.
Challenging for Surfers
Surfers who want to hike the trail must truly have a slightly masochistic streak. Moreover, they must be able to endure this psychological challenge throughout the entire route. The roar of the Atlantic waves crashing against the shore is a constant companion on the entire Fisher Trail, as the path runs directly along the cliffs, through the dunes, and sometimes even across the sandy beaches.
Scenic Beauty and Height Considerations
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| The "Fisher Trail" stretches over 200 kilometers along the West Coast of Portugal. © picture alliance/dpa/dpa-infografik GmbH/dpa-Themendienst | dpa-infografik GmbH |
"You're really walking by the sea all day long," says Carmelo, a retiree from Huesca, Spain. That's a good thing because there is hardly any shade along the route. At least the fresh sea breeze provides some cooling.
The Fisher Trail largely traverses the Southwest Alentejo and Vicentine Coast Natural Park. It follows centuries-old paths that fishermen and shellfish collectors from the villages still use to navigate along the coast.
Sometimes, Carmelo finds the narrow sandy paths a little too close to the cliffs, which can reach heights of up to 30 meters. "You must not have a fear of heights on this hiking trail," says Carmelo. He and his wife Adelina might consider hiking the entire Fisher Trail all the way to Lagos on the Algarve coast, which would cover a distance of 216 kilometers spread over 13 stages. They haven't made a final decision yet, but one thing is certain: they are enthusiastic.
From Beaches to Mighty Cliffs
After the surfer's beach of Malhão, the trail leads into untouched dunes. The landscape transforms, and the beaches give way to imposing cliffs all the way to Vila Nova de Milfontes. The day ends with a refreshing bath in the Mira River and local specialties and wines at Tasca do Celso, a rustic wine and gastro bar in Vila Nova de Milfontes. This coastal village is a sight to behold with its whitewashed houses and the fortress of Fort São Clemente built directly by the water.
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| Step by step, you ascend to the old fortress of Vila Nova de Milfontes. © Stimmungsbilder1 - Adobe Stock |
Storks and Cliff Ledges
Beneath the castle, one can cross the river using a small ferryboat, avoiding the longer route over the inland bridge. The next stage to Almograve is relatively short, measuring 15 kilometers, but no less beautiful. After the river, the trail initially leads through cork oak forests. Later, in the dunes, the midday flowers shine in yellow and pink, while the piercing grass pinks display a gentle violet color. Rockroses, junipers, and rosemary scent the roadside until the path leads over Praia do Brejo Largo, the next dream beach framed by wild-grown rocks.
Storks on Cliff Ledges
The following day: one passes the small fishing port of Lapa das Pombas, and afterwards, the dunes turn red, yellow, and white. The rock landscape becomes increasingly rugged. Storks nest on the narrow cliff ledges at Cape Sardão lighthouse, which extend down into the sea. Black redstarts also inhabit the area, and their singing accompanies hikers throughout the day.
Landhotel Herdade do Touril and Zambujeira do Mar
The trail then branches off to the country hotel Herdade do Touril, where a saltwater pool and hearty regional cuisine revive our tired bodies. From here, it is not far to Zambujeira do Mar. This white coastal village perches on a cliff.
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| The lighthouse "Farol de Cabo Sardão," built in 1914, is the landmark of Cabo Sardão. © stanciuc - Adobe Stock |
Morning Fog and Odeceixe
Morning fog adds a mystique to the cliff landscape on the way to Odeceixe the following day. After a few kilometers, the trail passes by a wildlife enclosure with ostriches and zebras, which adds a surreal touch. Several bathing coves line the path to the fishing village of Azenha do Mar.
A Panoramic View and Praia de Odeceixe
Soon, hikers reach the Ponta em Branco viewpoint, offering a panoramic view of—no surprise—a beautiful beach. At Praia de Odeceixe, this section of the Trilho dos Pescadores, which crosses the Alentejo region, comes to an end. At this point, approximately half of the trail has been completed. Those who wish can continue hiking and follow the Algarve coastline all the way to Lagos.
Alternatively, one can drop the backpack and take a refreshing swim in the Atlantic waves. And for those seeking a calmer experience, a few meters across the sandbank will lead to the quieter side of the beach, where the Ribeira de Seixe washes the back of the beach before flowing into the sea.